Bags of class - why do women love handbags so much?
What sacrifices would you
have to make to afford Gucci bags - all butter-soft leather, ruches and gold
hardware, and a hefty £720?
The Gucci bags is the ultimate 21st- century object of desire, not just for
supermodels and celebutantes, but for working women from all walks of life.
These days we're prepared to
spend more on a handbag than a holiday or even a car - and we want the rest of
the world to know it.
Clothes on the catwalk
regularly take second place to this most covetable of accessories - a trend
borne out earlier this year when Kate Moss starred in Gucci bags campaign,
lying naked on a beach, except for her New Gucci bags.
The message was clear:
clothes are redundant - it's all about the Bag.
But why do we find bags so
desirable? It's partly because they've become a unique outward statement of a
woman's status, fashion savvy and earning power - and the rising popularity of
handbags over the past 100 years has followed the increasing social
independence of their owners.
Two hundred years ago, a
woman's role was largely domestic and she would keep her belongings in a purse
tucked into the folds of her clothes.
But as women started leaving
the home, both for leisure and work, New
Gucci bags became a useful way of carrying their
possessions.
Rail and sea travel caused
an explosion in the popularity of fashionable luggage such as suitcases,
dressing cases, hat and shoe boxes - out of which the modern leather handbag
developed.
It's no accident that many
of today's most luxurious handbag design houses, such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci,
Prada and Hermes, originated in the late 19th and early 20th centuries as travel
became more common. Then, as women gained financial independence, so the
handbag industry flourished out of all proportion to its humble origins.
A seductive combination of
briefcase and luxury, with its distinctive gold charms, it proclaimed its
bearer as a serious woman who was nonetheless glamorous and sophisticated.
More recently, an appearance
on the arm of a style icon like Kate Moss can give a cutting edge to any modern
bag - and Mulberry, Balenciaga and Stella McCartney have all benefited from the
kudos in recent years.
Clever marketing inevitably
also plays a vital role in creating a must-have. While Kate Moss may always be
able to get her hands on the latest luxury bag, for the woman in the street
it's much more of a challenge, regardless of money.
Being unavailable is vital -
with waiting lists for a high-status bag such as the Hermes Birkin stretching
up to three years.
Women's natural
competitiveness is, of course, cleverly managed by the top bag designers. In
2005, Alexander McQueen stirred up customer demand to fever pitch when he
announced the launch of his new bag, the Novak, named after Kim Novak, the
legendary blonde actress who starred in Alfred Hitchcock's 1958 masterpiece
Vertigo.
After it was announced that
the bag was a limited edition with only 200 ever to be produced, starting at
£550 and rising to a whopping £6,000 for the deluxe crocodile version, the
Novak became the ultimate fashion trophy, selling out before a waiting list was
even compiled.
In fact, as manufacturers
have been quick to observe, ever-increasing price tags seem merely to add
lustre to an It-Bag's allure, and even seasoned observers are sometimes
astonished at our seemingly endless willingness to splash out on designer bags.
But while It-Bags may come
and go, only a handful of handbags have the stellar qualities to become
timeless.
Iconic bags are not just
strikingly designed, they also transcend the time in which they were created,
like the legendary Chanel 2.55, which was unveiled in 1955 (its name comes from
the month and year it was launched).
Other bags I'd include in
this elite field would be the Hermes Kelly, the Fendi Baguette and, more
recently, Marc Jacobs's Stam, the YSL Muse and the Mulberry Roxanne.
An iconic bag owes its
status not to canny marketing strategies, but to the finest traditions of
pedigree, quality and craftsmanship to look as good decades later as it did the
day it was first worn.
And, for a true bag-lover, that is
almost beyond price.

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